The J/35 is a solid one-design sailboat that has retained its popularity after almost 10 years of being out of construction. The boat was introduced in 1983, and about 325 boats were built. The ongoing strength of the class is still outstanding with over 35 boats competing at the recent North Americans.
In many people minds, the J/35 is just about the most perfect racer/cruiser. It has standing headroom, sleeping for 6-8 comfortably, has shower, stove, etc yet is wickedly fast.
With a PHRF rating of 66-72, the J/35 will walk past just about anything under forty feet, and with a competent skipper and crew will hold its own against the big boys! The speed and ease of handling is what I think is the large appeal of the J/35. It keeps its resale value well, with boat selling for $50,000U.S. - $70,000U.S., depending on condition. Many people are turning to the J/35 who have been racing smaller 30-foot sport boats, such as MORC and other such racer cruisers for its cruising ability as well as its fantastic race ability.
If you were to see a J/35 sitting in a harbour with a bunch of two tonners, or newer triple spreader 40's or old eight meters, one would hardly think of it as the "hot rod" in the group. The J/35 is actually quite conservative in its looks, sail plan, rig and foils yet when you sail the boat you will know that this is truly a magnificently designed boat that sails superbly.
RIG TUNING
Head stay Length
The J/35 is very receptive to change in head stay length. Normal head stay length for medium air (7-12 knots) is 48' 10". This is the measurement from the center of the pin passing through the tang on the mast to the center pin at the bottom of the head stay. The head stay is adjusted using the turnbuckle. This is adjusted about 2" from light air to heavy air. (i.e. 48'9" for 20+ knots, and 48'11" for up to 6 knots). With a little time in the boat, the helm will let you know what the right "feel" is like.
Setting up the Spar
The mast should be positioned all the way back to produce a length of 14'8" from the stem to the front of the mast. The butt of the mast should be placed all the way forward in the step. With a head stay length of 48' 10" there will be about an 18" rake.
Tensioning the Shrouds
The cap shrouds should be installed on the aft outside hole, with the lower diagonal (D1) on the forward hole. The diagonal shroud (D2) should be on the inside hole. Center the mast by using the main halyard on each side, and measuring it to the chain plate. Tension the rig as follows as a good base line, making sure the mast is centered and straight. You can check the straightness by looking up the luff grove.
Boat Preparation
Make sure the bottom and foils are as smooth and fair as possible. Once the bottom has all the scratches, dents and bumps removed use 400, wet sandpaper, to get a very smooth bottom.
Move the stern chain plate down one set of hole (then re-drill bottom hole) to allow maximum backstay movement.
Cut of the end of the tiller to allow more room for the helmsman between the traveler and the tiller.
Set up the fore guy from the base of the mast to allow smooth pole adjustments.
Replace the wire check stays with specta line and run forward to the secondary winches for adjustment and release by the "pit crew" Also make sure the check stays are led back to the center of the boat near the base of the stern chain plate rather than having it run to the corners of the transom as originally supplied.
Make the traveler line continuous so that it can be released from the high side
Keep all gear stowed within 2 feet of the mast.
Replace all halyards with spectra or Kevlar core to reduce speed robbing stretch and weight.
Tape all turnbuckles to avoid chafe. Place a sail roller on the lifelines to help in pulling the foot of the sail over the lifelines after a tack.
Increase the purchase of the outhaul to 10:1 by adding a block to the tail of the existing 5:1 system and dead-ending it at gooseneck end of the boom.
Sailing Upwind
The light Kevlar #1 can be used in a wind range of 0 to 14 knots true. The heavy Kevlar #1 can be used in 12 to 18 knots true. The 3# Kevlar will be used above 18 knots.
The Grand Prix Kevlar main does not need to be reefed until over 20 knots.
Downwind use the .5oz "Maxi Runner" for upwind/ downwind legs, and the .6oz A.P. 'chute for reaching. For heavy air, use a good A.P. .75 oz. 'chute.
Suggested Sail Inventory
NOTE: By class rules you are allowed only one 155% headsail on board plus two smaller headsails and three spinnakers.
Light Air - 3-6 knots
The head stay will be set at maximum or 48'11". Set the light #1 hand snug on the halyard. The sheet lead can be played with, moving it forward to power up, and inching it back as the boat comes up to speed. When accelerating, the leach should be at least 10" from the tip of the spreader, then slowly bringing into about 5" off the top spreader and about 6" off the base as the boat accelerates. The backstay will be off to just removing the slop in the backstay.
The main will be hoisted to the black line, but little to no Cunningham will be used. Remember in these conditions, wrinkles are fast! The outhaul should be about 2" from the black line, and the vang off. The boom should be on the centerline. Use the crew weight to leeward to heel the boat 10-12 degrees. Keep the boat powered up and keep the number of tacks to a minimum.
Medium Air - 7-12 knots
The head stay will be set at 48'10". Set the light #1 just to remove all the wrinkles. The sheet lead can move back slightly so that the foot of the sail is about 1"-2" from the base of the shrouds. When accelerating, the leach should be about 5" from the top spreader, coming into to about 1"- 2" away when at speed. The backstay will be pulled into about 800-1800 lbs
The main will be hoisted to the black line, and the wrinkles removed with the Cunningham. The outhaul should about 1" from the black line, vang snug. The boom can be played on the centerline to 2"-3" above the centerline.
Use the crew weight to keep the boat flat 5-10 degrees max heal.
The helm should at all times feel quite soft with the main trimmer lowering the traveler slightly every time the helm load up slightly. Good co-ordination between helmsman and main trimmer is essential in these conditions.
Medium Air - 13-18 knots
The head stay will be set at 48' 91/2". Set the heavy #1 just to remove the wrinkles. Make sure when you are testing up wind before the start that the draft is at 40-45% aft. The sheet lead will move forward slightly from the light #1 setting, but again it should be set up so that all the tell tails are breaking at the same time. The base of the sail will be touching the shroud base, and the top of the sail can be touching the spreader in the lower part of this range to 10" off at the higher range. The backstay will be set between 2000 lbs to 3500 lbs. The main sail will have all wrinkles removed and the outhaul will be used to pull the foot of the main all the way to the black line. The boom will be played from center to 6" below center. It is vitally important that the traveler is dropped if the helm loads up. Use the crew to keep the boat on its feet, with maximum heal at 15-18 degrees.
Heavy Air - 19+ knots
The head stay will be set at 48' 9". Set the Grand Prix #3 and make sure the draft is at 40-45% aft. The sheet lead will go inside the shrouds and run through the forward cars. Upwind, the foot will be quite flat, with the leach 3"-4" inside the upper spreaders. The backstay will be set max at about 4,000 lbs The mainsail will be made very flat with max outhaul, Cunningham and vang. The boom will be played from 6" below to all the way down, again depending on helm. Again try to keep the boat on its feet, with no more than 20 degrees of heal.
Upwind Sail Settings for J/35
TRUE WIND SPEED
| MAINSAIL | 0-6 knots | 7-12 knots | 13-19 knots | 20+knots |
| Backstay | snug | 800-1200 lbs | 2000-3500 lbs | 4000 lbs |
| Outhaul | back 1.5" | back 1" | to black band | to black band |
| Boom | centerline +3" | to center | center to -4 | -6 or more |
| Cunningham | none | 50% on | no wrinkles | on tight |
| Vang | none | snug | 50% on | on tight |
| Runner | off | snug | 50% on | on tight |
| Heal Angle | 10-12 | 5-10 | 15-18 | 18-20 |
| Crew Weight | Low | Centered | hike hard | hike harder |
HEAD SAIL
| Headstay | 48'11" | 48'10" | 48' 9 ½" | 48' 9" |
| Halyard | hand tight | hand tight | firm | firm |
| Sail Choice | Light #1 | Light #1 | Heavy #1 | #3 |
| From Spreader | 5"-10" | 1"-5" | 0"-10" | inside 4" |
| From Base | 6" | 2" | 0" | inside |
Once the correct sail selection is made, it is important to "go up wind" before the start to check the following.
The J/35 loves to go fast with a very neutral helm. If the helm is heavy, this is slow, and adjustments need to be made.
SPINNAKER
Light Air Trim - Down wind
Light air is a real exercise in concentration. As soon as the boat slows down, head up 2-3 degrees to get closer to the wind. As the boat begins to gain speed, ease it back down again slowly.
The helmsman must constantly search for wind and good wind angles. In these conditions, it is better to sail a little high instead of a little low. The Lightning Bolt Maxi Runner will excel in these light conditions allowing you to sail lower and faster than with a conventional all purpose 'chute. It is important that the trimmer and helmsman communicate about the pressure and the guy trimmer pays attention to the angle that the boat is sailing to the wind. The crew weight should be kept well forward.
Heavy Air Trim - Downwind
To maximize speed, you need to maximize exposed area, and reduce rudder drag. Again the Lightning Bolt Maxi Runner excels in down wind conditions. The boat should sail from +5 degrees to by the lea 5 degrees. By the lea with the boat heal slightly to weather is fast.
The leeward twing should be pulled about half way on to allow maximum projected area. The pole can be at 90 degrees to the boat. If the boat suddenly roles to windward, the pole should be let forward until the boat comes under control.
On the set, It is critical to get the head sail down quickly. When using a blade, it is not so important, and in many cases can be left up if it is not interfering with the spinnaker.
Reaching
Spinnaker reaches on the J/35 are exhilarating. Depending on the wind use either the .6 A.P or the .75 A.P. Keep the spinnaker pole relatively low, and always at least one foot off the forestay. Make sure the leeward tweaker is right of, to allow the foot of the 'chute to flatten out. If the helm loads up quickly release control lines from the rear to the bow i.e. mainsheet, main vang, spinnaker sheet. With practice, you will feel the boat load up and can react with the helm before you wipe out! Remember steer down in the puffs, and up in the lulls.
If the angle is too tight or too windy, set the genoa, but remember to move the cars forward and pull outboard if possible.
Tips to Remember
This tuning guide is made to get you "fast" out of the box. With practice, you will find more "secrets" that will help improve your boat speed. You will enjoy the way your J/35 sails, and how it reacts to your set up. Practice what is covered in this guide and you will see a marked improvement in your '35's performance.
Enjoy and good sailing.
Russ Perry
Skipper TOP GUN